Plastic edging is the quick, low-cost start, but it tends to heave, shift and separate over a few freeze and thaw cycles. Concrete curbing costs more up front and is harder to change later, but it stays put as one continuous edge.
What each one is
Plastic edging comes in rolls or strips. You dig a narrow trench, set the edging in, drive stakes through it, and backfill. Joints connect one length to the next. It is sold at every garden center and goes in with hand tools.
Concrete curbing, also called concrete edging or landscape curbing, is poured in place. A machine or a set of forms shapes wet concrete into a continuous border that follows your bed line. Once it cures, it is one solid piece with no stakes and no joints between sections.
Both do the same basic job. They keep mulch or rock in the bed, keep grass out, and give the lawn a clean edge. The difference is how long that edge stays where you put it.
How plastic edging fails
In a climate with real winters, frost is the main enemy. As wet soil freezes, it expands and pushes up on anything shallow in it. Thin plastic edging gets lifted a little each winter. After a few seasons the top edge rides high, wavy, or out of the ground altogether.
The joints are the second weak spot. Connectors pull apart, and grass runs through the gap. Mowers and string trimmers nick the top edge, and sunlight makes thinner plastic brittle over time.
None of that means plastic is a mistake. It is easy to install, easy to move, and easy to replace. It just needs more resetting than people expect.
Where concrete curbing does better, and where it does not
A continuous curb has no connectors to separate and no stakes to work loose. It is heavy and stiff, so it resists being pushed around by frost. It gives a mower wheel something to run along, which cuts down on trimming.
The tradeoffs are real. Concrete is permanent. If you like to reshape beds every few years, curbing will fight you. It can crack, especially if the base was soft or the joints were skipped. A cracked curb usually still works, but it does not look as clean.
It also needs a level, firm base. On a yard that slopes the wrong way or holds water, the grading should be fixed before any edging goes in.
Is concrete curbing worth it?
It usually is when three things are true. You are happy with the bed shapes. You plan to stay in the house for a while. And you are tired of resetting edging every spring.
It is less likely to be worth it on a rental you will leave soon, on beds you are still experimenting with, or where a garden is going to be dug up for other work in the next year or two.
Price depends on the total length, how many curves and tree rings there are, the prep the beds need, and access for equipment. The only way to get a real number is to have someone measure the runs and look at the ground.
DIY cement curbing: what it involves
Homeowners can pour their own curbing, either with hand forms or a rented curb machine. People who try it usually find the concrete is not the hard part. The hard parts are the base, the mix and the timing.
The trench has to be cut level and firm, or the curb will settle unevenly. The mix has to be stiff enough to hold its shape but workable enough to finish. Once you start, you have to keep going until the run is done, then cut control joints at the right time and protect the curb while it cures.
A short, straight run is a fair first project. A full yard of curves and tree rings is a lot to learn on, and mistakes are hard to undo.
Other options worth knowing
Steel and aluminum edging sit between the two. They are thin, strong and less likely to heave than plastic, but they still rely on stakes and joints. Brick and paver edging look traditional but can shift without a good base.
The simplest option of all is a spade-cut edge: a clean, hand-cut trench between bed and lawn with no material at all. It costs nothing but time, and it needs recutting a few times a season.
If you want a hand weighing it up, our concrete curbing and landscape edging page explains how we do it. We cover the area around Ottawa as well; see concrete curbing in Ottawa.
The Short Version
- Plastic edging is low cost and easy but tends to heave and separate with frost.
- Concrete curbing is one continuous piece, so it stays put better but is hard to change.
- Control joints and a firm, level base are what keep concrete curbing looking right.
- Curbing makes most sense when you like the bed shapes and plan to stay.
- Fix grading and drainage first; see yard grading.
Quick Answers
Is concrete curbing worth it compared with plastic edging?
For permanent beds you plan to keep, usually yes, because it needs far less resetting. For beds you change often or a home you will leave soon, plastic or steel may make more sense.
Can I do DIY cement curbing myself?
You can, with hand forms or a rented curb machine. The hard parts are a level base, the right mix, and cutting control joints at the right time. Short straight runs are a reasonable first try.
Does concrete landscape edging crack?
It can. Control joints are cut so cracks form in planned places. A soft or uneven base makes random cracking more likely.
How do I find out what concrete curbing will cost for my yard?
Have the runs measured. Length, curves, tree rings, bed prep and access all move the price. Call (815) 240-9065 or send photos through the contact form for a free estimate.
See our curbing & landscape service or call (815) 240-9065.